Check out the "Nice People to Meet" on http//:xananarepublic.blogspot.com. Keep a lookout for Emil and Liliana Schmid who are a Swiss couple mentioned in the Guinness Book of Records for most countries visited in a single car (156). They have been on the road for more than 22 years. And now they are in Timor Leste and loving it. Their blue Toyota Landcruiser has all the countries visited painted on the side.
They will be passing on any tourism they collect on their travels around the country and we will post them as they come in on this site.
They have already sent the following information about Timor Leste consular facilities:
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From Emil and Liliana
"TL Consulate in Kupang:It says nothing of a Consulate GENERAL on its letter head or rubber stamp, just: Consulado da Republica Democratica de Timor Leste em Kupang-NTTConsul: Caetano Guterres
Phone: +62 380 8554552 Fax: +62 380 8554553 Cell: +62 81339137755 or 81339367558
Address: Jl. Eltari IIKelurahan Fatululi
Kupang NTT
TL Consulate General in Denpasar/Bali:
Consulado General da Republica Democratica de Timor Leste em Denpasar-Bali
Consul General: Manuel SerranoJl. Prof. Yamin No. 4 Renon
Denpasar Bali
Tel. +62 361 235093
(same place where the Australian Consulate was before)"
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Thanks...
I really appreciate updates from travellers on tourism facilities. It helps to keep our database current. Feel free to post.... by emailing attl_vp@hotmail.com or by putting a comment on on this site.
Monday, May 28, 2007
Thursday, May 10, 2007
Nema's @ Atauro - Review
Paradise in Dili – Nema’s Lodge, and the getting there
By Chris Steel
As I was about to depart Timor-Leste for too many months, John and I decided to spend my last weekend away on Atauro, the small island lying to the north of Dili. Why go to Bali or Darwin for your well-earned rest, when paradise is less than 40km away? Apart from being one of the most peaceful spots in Timor at present, it boasts excellent snorkelling and diving, sunny smiles and total relaxation, and (at the place we stayed) excellent nosh. Getting there and back can be arranged by negotiating with one of the local boats or there is the new Ro-Ro type ferry Nakromah, doing the twice weekly route on Wednesdays and Saturdays. This also has the bonus of arriving about 500m from Nema’s Lodge.
By Chris Steel
As I was about to depart Timor-Leste for too many months, John and I decided to spend my last weekend away on Atauro, the small island lying to the north of Dili. Why go to Bali or Darwin for your well-earned rest, when paradise is less than 40km away? Apart from being one of the most peaceful spots in Timor at present, it boasts excellent snorkelling and diving, sunny smiles and total relaxation, and (at the place we stayed) excellent nosh. Getting there and back can be arranged by negotiating with one of the local boats or there is the new Ro-Ro type ferry Nakromah, doing the twice weekly route on Wednesdays and Saturdays. This also has the bonus of arriving about 500m from Nema’s Lodge.
We only had one night so after some discussions with a Padre we learned that he was returning to Atauro the following day at 10am. These small boats do depend on weather conditions (but there again, so does the Nakroma ferry) but thankfully the weather was perfect. In fact we could have gone across on an inflatable mattress it was so calm, but didn’t fancy the long-toms piercing it!
As scheduled a little dug-out came shoreside from the “Ro Maun Alin” first ferrying all the stuff we were taking across to the island (more on that later). I thought we and the Padre were the only passengers but about a dozen others materialized from the shady banyan trees. Each chose a particular spot to perch – seats are at a premium and you definitely needed to keep well clear of the tiller.
Ro Maun Alin is a sizeable craft powered by a Yamaha 19hp inboard engine. So the rythmic ker-dunk, ker dunk was pretty slow. We soon realised that it would indeed take all of the estimated 3 hours. But hey, who cares, we were on holiday the sea and sky were vying with each other to be bluer and there was plenty to watch. Flying fish and dolphins abound. At other times of the year we would have been looking out for whales. However the best entertainment came from the passengers themselves. First a plastic bag of fresh sardines was brought out and two or three settled down to de-scale and de-gut them. That done, quick swill out of the pan with sea water, followed by what I thought was some sort or vinegar but was actually the local tua mutin, served up in 5 litre containers. One wizened old lady dived in and came up smiling with a mouth brimming with bones in all directions. Niceties meant that John and I were then offered followed by the other non-participant passengers. I was glad to see none of them wanted roll-mop Timorese style though I am sure they are delicious though somewhat prickly!
Apart from speed (lack of it) the downside of this boat was the cost. The advertised US$3 is for locals while we had official tickets printed showing $15. Hmmm, not wanting to be chucked overboard to the sharks we paid up. Or we might have been put on baling duty, I’ve noticed a much needed bit of kit on most of these craft.
[I might add just here that you can hire Island Lady from Island Charters or even tie in a diving trip and get dropped off by FreeFlow or Dive Timor. There are also other local boats regularly going over to sell rice or no doubt bring back stuff that has somehow found its way to Atauro from Indonesia. These methods are much quicker, more comfortable but the former will set you back many more greenbacks.]
Barry, who is an Aussie volunteer, has built Nema’s place at Beloi near the Ferry port. Unfortunately we landed the other end of the island at Vila so needed transport. We were carrying a load of vegetables and other important stuff like whisky and beer, knowing that these things are a bit in short supply on the island. Always best to ring first and ask if he needs anything ferrying out. As it was we should have brought a solenoid thingey (sorry not technical) to enable his lorry (one of only 7 vehicles on the island) to meet us. Never mind, the local “fixer” came along in Vehicle No 2 and soon took us the 5km or so.
Barry has the help of his Timorese extended family and they all come and greet you. The smiles and welcomes are genuine and not just because we have been there several times. We could see that Barry has built several new “chalets” as they are far too attractive to call huts. Ours was a two storey affair with fantastic views across the bay or to the hazy mountains behind. The accommodation is rustic but clean and comfortable. Outside eco-loo (with throne), naturally warm water in the bucket and chuck-it shower. Barry is making a larger house at one end suitable for small conferences or weekend group retreats.
The children ran off to play in the sand while I submerged in velvety crystal clear water nearby. Not good for snorkelling just by our hut, but we learned about only 200m down by the port was the best spot. He didn’t lie. John and I have done quite a bit of diving and a lot of snorkelling over this planet and I can say that for ease of entry, variety and pristine corals and sponges this place takes a lot of beating. Light was fading but tomorrow morning the tide would be lower and the sun higher. Walking back along the beach we saw a freshly landed yellow-fin tuna, nearly as big as the boat it was in. Quick chat to the “lads” to the effect “what a whoppa” and I was wondering what we would be getting for supper/dinner/tea, depending on which type of English you speak. Several beers consumed (bring your own if you don’t like Tiger) and the world put to rights. Then the feast! Those tuna steaks done in garlic and lime, but so fresh and yummy were sublime. Even John ate seconds and he doesn’t like fish! Perfection - a cloudless night sky with the milky way in attendance. Someone was singing and you could feel the tensions easing out of the knots in your back. Oh why did I have to leave for UK the next day?
The repeat snorkelling experience left us spell-bound. Spotless sandy beach, body warm waters. Such colour and diversity!. And even if you have never done it before, at low tide you can walk in about 10m, stick you face in the water and see the edge of the reef. We scooted over the top to the drop off the other side, when you get that magic feeling like you are flying out over the deep blue. This was all of 25m from the shore (at low tide) and less than 100m from where the boat “docks”.
The return by the new Nakroma ferry was a different type of adventure. Don’t bother mustering on the first blast of the siren, which is probably just to get you out of the water, as it only takes 10 minutes to wander down the beach from Nema’s Lodge and there are another couple of hoots before leaving anyway. We travelled back 1st class which is exactly the same as VIP but $3 cheaper at $7. You can do 2nd Class which is very comfortable but no air-con at $3 (I think).
At time of writing Barry charges $15 per person per day, dinner bed and breakfast. This is definitely excellent value, especially when compared with the other Eco-Lodge along the way which charges separately for accommodation and food, the latter being very poor fare when we were there on previous occasion.
If you are reading this, and have a few days in which to “escape”, do please consider going over to Atauro. Barry and his Timorese family will give you a welcome like no other. You can get all the details from FreeFlow or this web site. The only downside I can see is always needing more time to enjoy a decent dose of paradise.
The repeat snorkelling experience left us spell-bound. Spotless sandy beach, body warm waters. Such colour and diversity!. And even if you have never done it before, at low tide you can walk in about 10m, stick you face in the water and see the edge of the reef. We scooted over the top to the drop off the other side, when you get that magic feeling like you are flying out over the deep blue. This was all of 25m from the shore (at low tide) and less than 100m from where the boat “docks”.
The return by the new Nakroma ferry was a different type of adventure. Don’t bother mustering on the first blast of the siren, which is probably just to get you out of the water, as it only takes 10 minutes to wander down the beach from Nema’s Lodge and there are another couple of hoots before leaving anyway. We travelled back 1st class which is exactly the same as VIP but $3 cheaper at $7. You can do 2nd Class which is very comfortable but no air-con at $3 (I think).
At time of writing Barry charges $15 per person per day, dinner bed and breakfast. This is definitely excellent value, especially when compared with the other Eco-Lodge along the way which charges separately for accommodation and food, the latter being very poor fare when we were there on previous occasion.
If you are reading this, and have a few days in which to “escape”, do please consider going over to Atauro. Barry and his Timorese family will give you a welcome like no other. You can get all the details from FreeFlow or this web site. The only downside I can see is always needing more time to enjoy a decent dose of paradise.
To book Nema's @ Atauro call Barry on +670-723-6084
To charter the Island Lady call Jim on +670-725-8419
To dive Atauro with FreeFlow call Wayne on +670-7234614
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